Instructions are for installation of a vinyl liner, underlayment and shrouds in an upright metal tank. Other instructions may apply depending on how your tank is plumbed.
1. Clean tank.
2. Remove all fittings.
3. Prepare and spray or paint all bad spots on tank wall. Use a product such as Extend or Rustoleum or other appropriate rust preventative. If coating tank roof you will need a potable grade material. Follow all manufacturer's instructions. Take care not the breathe the fumes. Allow to dry. If the entire tank has been coated, drying time may need to be 24 hours or longer depending on weather conditions.
4. Drill 1/8" "weep holes" in the floor near the wall in 6 to 8 places. This will allow for drainage of condensation.
5. Drill 1" x 6' x 1/8" stainless steel bars 1" from each end and approximatley every 6" in between. The bars will then be used as templates for drilling your tank as follows: 5 a. Take your first predrilled stainless steel bar and mark #1 on it and #1 at the TOP of tank wall where you start. Mark the beginning start line. 5 b. Drill the tank wall using the bar as a template. You must put the bend in the bar same as tank curvature. Mark an arrow on the bar for direction of install. Insert a bolt into the first hole to hold the bar in place as you drill and insert a bolt every 3rd or 4th hole to maintain the proper alignment. Mark a line where the stainless steel bar ends. Take the bar down and set it aside. 5 c. Start procedure over with a second bar leaving approximately 1/8" to 1/4" between bars. Repeat this step until the entire tank circumference has been drilled. 5 d. Be sure to mark every bar #1, #2, #3 etc. and direction of install >> along with marking corresponding numbers and end marks on tank wall.
6. REMOVE ALL METAL CUTTINGS FROM FLOOR.
7. Place two ladders inside of tank. Feet of ladders should be padded and base of ladders should always be supported by a second person when anyone is on the ladder.
Optional - Underlayment is recommended between the tank and the liner as additional protection to the liner. Underlayment may also reduce heat transfer through tank walls. Underlayment comes in large sheets and you can cut it to size to match the diameter of the tank floor (you can order it already cut) or you can leave it rectangular and fold the corners back. Place bottom panel on floor of tank. You should also have underlayment to hang against the tank wall. Before hanging underlayment on tank wall, insert the bolts from the outside of the tank in all the drilled holes. These will be used to hang underlayment in place. Attach underlayment to wall taking care to see that it is not too tight and will conform with the curvature of the tank wall. Edges of the underlayment should be straight up and down the wall. There should be extra underlayment for overlapping.
Before you install your liner, mark tank into quarters starting with #1 mark on the tank. Do the same with the liner starting at the vertical seam. Since the liner is made slightly over size, these markings will be useful alignment points.
Place liner in the tank. Workers shoes should be removed at this point or soft soled shoes should be worn. Unfold the liner and locate bottom seam of the liner to the wall around the circumference of the tank. The liner should fit with bottom seam 1"-2" up tank wall and not flat on the floor. (*As the vinyl liners shrinks, it will pull downward and the seam will eventually end up being on the floor. If you start with your seam on the floor this will increase your chance of a seam separation as the liner shrinks.)
11. Pull vertical seam of the liner to the top of the tank. Cut hole (do not make a straight cut) in liner large enough for attaching bolt and slide over attaching bolt in the first hole of #1. Then attach at opposite sides of tank, then at the quarter marks. Final attachment should now be done taking care to pull liner taut along the wall with bottom seam held in place then RELIEVED BACK DOWNWARD 1"-2" or more. Liner is made slightly larger than the tank and will show pleats or folds from the top to the floor. These should be reasonably straight up and down with the wall. There should also be a small amount of fullness or "blouse" in liner near the floor after attachment is completed.
12. Plumbing and shrouds may now be attached. From the outside of the tank, insert your pipe through the tank wall and be sure it is clean and free of any high spots or burrs. From the inside your tank, you will need to slide the white rubber seal over the pipe after you cut a hole in the liner following instruction 12 a.
12 a. The liner needs to be cut to accommodate where the plumbing will come through. The opening should be slightly smaller than the plumbing. An easy way to determine the cut size is to push liner tight against the plumbing and hold it in place with one hand while you cut the liner to the inside of the pipe using the pipe as your guide. Slide liner over the pipe. Slide the white rubber seal over the pipe to where the hose clamp is to be placed.
12 d. Trim shroud to proper length, then wrap a strip of scrape vinyl to the outside of the shroud over area where rubber seal is located. Add hose clamp and tighten.
12 c. Slide shroud over pipe, press glued areas together and roll out any air bubbles with a roller, rolling to the outside of the shroud. Roll or press together until stuck.
13. The area between the 1.) rubber seal and pipe and 2.)rubber seal and shroud should be coated with a good sealant preferably Rector Seal.
14. Remove all tools and ladders from tank and disinfect liner with lightly chlorinated water before filling.
12 b. Prepare the flat surface of the shroud and the area of the liner it will cover with PVC pipe solvent by coating it with the swab provided on can lid. Then coat both surfaces with glue. Allow surfaces to become tacky. Depending on weather conditions this may take 1-5 minutes.